The Newgrange Lodge is another awesome hostel, if not so cheap, and right next to the Visitor Centre for the neolithic passage tombs Knowth and Newgrange. Them explored to the full, I head off to walk around a bit on the Hill of Tara, before plunging right into rush-hour in the outskirts of Dublin. Roadsigns seem to be considered luxury in Ireland, and more often than not, I have to backtrack and circle, but with a heap of luck and intuition I end up right where I meant to go: on the road to Sally Gap and the Wicklow Mtns.. Talking about driving in general and sign-posting in particular: decent driving and navigation skills appear to be basic requirements for anyone game enough to explore more of Ireland than just the few towns along the motorways. The many backcountry roads are single lane with no shoulder whatsoever, just a few bays once in a while to allow for oncoming traffic, and the majority of roads altogether is fairly bumpy and chippy. But EU funding is being used for road up-grading, esp. in touristy areas, so maybe that very Irish peculiarity will vanish over time, just like the cottages had to make room for impressive mansions in some places (- also financed by EU money actually intended to help farmers improve their lifestock facilities and management...). It's already late when I reach the Wicklow Mtns. NP, and after a quick look at the ancient monastic settlement of Glendalough I drop dead in the most expensive dorm bed of my travels @ the local YH.
The Wicklow Mtns. are more rugged than I expected - and: they feature the 2nd real forest I come upon. With the An Spinc trail, the NP offers breathtaking views. Breathtaking also, because of the ferocious wind battling along the cliff trail :). But despite the never-ending train of clouds I only get caught by so much as a drizzle today! In order to make up for the lost day @ Warrenpoint I rush south to enjoy the view from The Vee, the famous viewpoint from the pass across the Knockmealdown Mtns. towards the Galty Mtns. in the north. And I reach the Rock of Cashel just in time for the last half hour of soft sunlight. Tonight a real treat is awaiting me: a huge comfy bed and a warm welcome of Dermott's unsuspecting brother and family. Thank you, "Foxy", Anette, Alison, Anja, and Bruno :-)!